Embarking on the Rhine: Europe's Revolutionary Long-Distance Cycling Adventure
Spanning an impressive 1,450 kilometers, the Rhine Cycle Route is a cultural treasure trove, offering an 87% car-free journey from the North Sea to the majestic Swiss Alps. But this adventure began with a challenge - the logistical nightmare of transporting a bicycle into Europe. It's a tale of determination and the allure of exploring Europe's first certified long-distance cycle path.
The Rhine Cycle Route: A Journey of Discovery
My initial plan was to cycle across the French Alps, but the complexities of getting my bike there and back led me to an alternative adventure - riding the Rhine from the Hook of Holland to its source. And what an adventure it turned out to be!
The Rhine Cycle Route, or EV15, is part of the ambitious EuroVelo network, an incredible 99,000-kilometer cycling network that aims to connect Europe by 2030. It's a route that caters to all, from the hardcore Lycra enthusiasts to families enjoying the ease of e-bikes. With its meticulous way-marking and car-free paths, it's a cyclist's dream.
A Journey Through History and Scenery
As I imagined myself whizzing along the Rhine's banks, I couldn't help but be drawn to the rich history and romance of this iconic river. From the Dutch polders to the Alsace Wine Route, the historic bridges of Basel, the mighty Rhine Falls, the serene Lake Constance, and finally, the river's source high in the Swiss Alps, each stretch promised an unforgettable experience.
Preparing for the Challenge
Traveling light was my mantra, with just one bag on the handlebars and another on the saddle, I kept my luggage to a minimum, opting for the practicality of Lycra and a single set of everyday clothes. I chose a road bike with skinny tires, knowing it would be a bumpy ride, but speed was my priority.
The Start: Netherlands - A Cycling Nation
Beginning in the Netherlands, a cycling haven since the 1970s, I was quickly immersed in a country where cyclists rule the roads. The wide cycle paths led me through Rotterdam, and I soon adapted to the unique road rules of this cycling-friendly nation.
Day 1: Exhaustion and a Conservative Welcome
Covering 145 kilometers in a day was more challenging than I anticipated. On the first night, I arrived exhausted at a hotel east of Dordrecht, only to find myself amidst a wedding celebration. The reception's Josephine assured me it would be an early night, and she was right - I was asleep by 10 PM, a testament to the day's physical demands.
Exploring the Rhine's Delta
The Rhine's journey through the Netherlands is a complex one, splitting into several branches and forming a vast delta. I crossed the Waal tributary by ferry and meandered along the intricate dykes, a constant reminder of the battle against the encroaching sea.
Germany: Industrial Heritage and Medieval Connections
Germany's steel capital, Duisburg, with its towering chimneys and rusting industrial remnants, offered a fascinating yet intimidating glimpse into the country's brutalist past. I continued through Cologne, where the dark clouds over the Gothic cathedral added to the city's foreboding atmosphere.
The Allure of Slow Travel
As the trip progressed, I began to question the appeal of slow travel. The EV15 route sometimes led me down dubious paths, little more than tire tracks across barren lands. I started to wonder if driving to the highlights and skipping the rest might be a more enjoyable option.
Rediscovering the Joy of Cycling
But then, a third of the way into my journey, my enthusiasm was reignited. The Lorelei, a cliff in the heart of the Rhine Gorge, is steeped in medieval legend, a place where a siren is said to lure sailors to their doom. It's a spot that has captivated tourists for centuries, and I was eager to experience its magic.
Intense and Uplifting Encounters
Encounters along the way were often memorable. Drafting behind a long-distance racer for two hours, I experienced the thrill of speed and the camaraderie of the road. Another time, I sought shelter in a nunnery during a thunderstorm, where Sister Angeline shared her concerns about the community's future.
The Swiss Leg: Lake Constance and Beyond
The stretch towards Lake Constance is a hidden gem, with a series of wooden bridges spanning the Rhine, the longest at Bad Sackingen. The medieval town of Stein-am-Rhein, with its half-timbered houses and mythical facades, is a must-visit, offering a glimpse into a bygone era.
The Finish Line and a Linguistic Twist
As I approached the end, I found myself in the last stronghold of the Romansh language, a descendant of Vulgar Latin spoken by Roman soldiers who invaded in 15 BCE. It was a fitting end to a journey that had immersed me in German-language culture, and now, I was faced with a new linguistic challenge.
This journey along the Rhine Cycle Route is a testament to the power of slow travel, offering a unique perspective on Europe's rich history and diverse landscapes. It's a journey that inspires and challenges, leaving a lasting impression on all who embark on it.
